Inverness: The gateway to the Highlands

After I fell in love with Scotland on my first trip to Edinburgh in 2021, it quickly became clear that I wanted to explore more of the country, and the opportunity arrived sooner than expected: a 10-day window to work remotely during the British winter.

I first heard of Inverness through the TV series Outlander, and a little research revealed its reputation as “the gateway to the Scottish Highlands.” Perfectly positioned for exploring iconic Scottish landmarks (Loch Ness, Skye Islands, etc.), the city also offers its own charm, with scenic views stretching across the River Ness.

I booked two inexpensive EasyJet flights from Gatwick (around £40 each way), secured a cozy Airbnb, and braved the bitter Scottish winter!

Bridge Street, the main pedestrian street in Inverness

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Itinerary

I based myself in Inverness for 10 days (red), which is basically the northernmost city in the UK with acceptable infrastructure for a digital nomad. It’s reachable both by train and by air, reasonably well connected to all nearby attractions, has a small number of tour operators and the regular franchises you expect to find in any small UK city (Tesco supermarket, a few coffee shops, Puregym, etc).

I enjoyed the city during my free breaks on the days I was working, plus two amazing full-day tours where I got to visit Loch Ness, a few castles, and Skye Islands. All the details below.

Inverness City

Inverness is a rather small city, with a population of 45000 and a compact, scenic city center. The city is split in two by the River Ness, and I was lucky enough to get a great apartment one block away from the Old Town, right across the river.

Bridge St, Inverness Town House, Leakey’s Book Shop

Bridge St, the main pedestrian street, is dotted with shops and leads straight to a bridge crossing the River Ness

Bridge Street is my favourite street in the city centre, you can find branches of most British franchises in the atmospheric cobbled streets. My absolute favourite coffee shop is a cozy Cafe Nero, where I would get a spot next to the window each morning and see the snow fall.

Having a cappuccino from Cafe Nero

Winter is a great time to be here, because it’s low season, and the town feels quiet and slow. I noticed that most of the people around were locals, as the coffee shop baristas would greet the usual customers by name, often old ladies that meet to have a chat.

A few interesting sites are next to this main street. Inverness Town House (historically the Town Hall) looks like a small castle, and two wolf gargoyles guard the entrance.

Inverness Town House

Wolf-like statues, guarding the Town House

Leakey’s Book Shop is a must-see in the city, a quirky shop full of second-hand books, maps, and prints. I spent a few hours here, especially since I kept coming back and finding hidden treasures, and the place is fairly large.

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The unicorn is officially Scotland’s national animal. Inverness city center.

The River Ness

The River Ness offers exquisite views of the city from both sides:

A must-do activity in Inverness is to walk down the river to the Ness Islands, following peaceful footpaths and taking in the views. It takes about 4 hours to do the full loop.

Those quiet walks following the river were calming and inspiring to me. You’ll see a number of bridges and soon be out of the town, walking into small groves that remind you of the Celtic roots of this land.

Churches

Inverness is full of churches, although most of them were closed when I tried to visit. They look scenic from the outside, and you can pass by them during the river walk:

Gym 300 has 24-7 membership cards if you buy a week pass - Text them on instagram.

Inverness Castle & Inverness Museum

The castle overlooks the city, although it has been closed for years due to renovation works. Apparently the city is pouring a lot of money to make it quite impressive.

At the time of my visit, you could see the exteriors, and it looked like this:

There is a very small museum next door (Inverness Museum), which had extremely reduced opening hours and it’s not really worth visiting.

Day Trip: Loch Ness, Fort Augustus & Urquhart Castle

I reserved a spot in one of Rabbie’s day tours to visit the famous Loch Ness, where the monster Nessie is supposed to live. To be honest, the lake is absolutely ordinary, and it felt a little bit like a tourist trap. Of course, you’re not going to see anything resembling Nessie, other than a lot of inventive souvenirs.

Loch Ness, which looks just like any other lake

Incidentally, I learned that the Scots use a few different words that I kept hearing over and over:

Scottish	English
loch	lake
glen	valley
kirk	church

After Loch Ness, the tour was really good: great views of the Scottish countryside, which looks magical and eerie in winter due to the mist and shifting weather.

The road south to Inverness, near Fort Augustus Sheep

Fort Augustus Fort Augustus

The gem of this day trip was Urquhart Castle, one of the most iconic castles about 20 km south west of Inverness.

Founded around the 13th Century, it overlooks Loch Ness and offers stunning views. It is nowadays a medieval ruin, featuring walls, towers and gatehouses.

One day I hope to visit the ruins on my own and take my time to stroll around. The guided tour only allowed a brief stop.

Day Trip 2: Eilean Donan Castle & Skye Island

On a second day trip, I got to visit a slightly less-ruined castle: Eilean Donan Castle. It’s imposingly located on a small island and connected to the mainland by a stone bridge.

Built in the 13th century to defend against Viking invasions, it was destroyed in 1719 during the Jacobite uprising and subsequently restored in the early 20th Century.

This second day tour involved a lot of driving to reach Skye Island, located west of Scotland. The cute fishing villages were very photogenic (despite the terrible weather):

The main town, Portree, is famous for its colorful facades:

The open landscapes in Skye and the West Highlands are majestic and well worth the long drive:

Expenses

Here is an overview of the trip costs in January/February (low season) of 2022.

Item	Details	Cost (GBP)
Flight London → Inverness	Easyjet, with one checked bag	50
Flight Inverness → London	Easyjet, with one checked bag	59
Accommodation	Entire apartment at Booking.com - 14 nights	612
Rabbie Day Tour - Skye & Eilean Donan	Student discount applied	39
Rabbie Day Tour - Complete Loch Ness Experience	Student discount applied	21

The low season helped a lot to keep these costs very low: The same apartment booking and Rabbie tours cost twice as much in high season.

Feelings & Final Thoughts

I have a particular love for Scotland — and especially Inverness — that I feel for no other place in the world. The Highlands have kept alive a Celtic identity that was elsewhere all but erased, and the region is steeped in magical and mythological legends. The old language, Scottish Gaelic, is still alive here. Combined with the stunning landscapes and vibrant colors, it feels so real that you almost expect to spot a fairy or some other mystical creature lurking behind the trees.

I first landed in Inverness at a turning point in my life. I was in the midst of an existential crisis, weighed down by anxiety and sadness. I remember walking along the frozen paths by the river after the gym, and suddenly finding peace in the quiet stillness of the city at night. Savoring several cups of coffee from a cozy café while watching the snow fall also helped ease my worries during that difficult time.

The day trips added the much-needed dose of action and adventure to this trip. The landscapes of Skye Islands, the view of Portree, and the many dark castles we visited were undoubtedly highlights of the trip.

Years later, in late 2024, feeling much happier, I returned to Inverness to rewrite the memories of my first visit. I stayed in the same apartment, walked the same streets, and this time gave the past a happier ending. I have no doubt that I will be back!

Scottish Highlands: Nerdy Stats Table

Category	Fact	Nerdy Detail
Geography	Area size	About 25,656 km² – larger than Wales.
Population	Density	~9 people per km² – one of the least densely populated regions in Europe.
Mountains	Ben Nevis	At 1,345 m, it’s the highest peak in the UK.
Lochs	Loch Ness	Holds more freshwater than all the lakes in England and Wales combined.
Climate	Four seasons in a day	Rain, sun, wind, and snow can all happen in 24h (sometimes in 1h 😅).
Language	Scottish Gaelic	Still spoken by ~11% of Highlanders. “Inverness” in Gaelic is Inbhir Nis.
History	Jacobite Rising	The Battle of Culloden (1746), near Inverness, was the last pitched battle on British soil.
Castles	Eilean Donan	One of the most photographed castles in the world, rebuilt in the 20th century.
Whisky	Highland distilleries	Over 40 distilleries, producing styles from light floral to rich peaty malts.
Pop Culture	Outlander	The series put Inverness & Culloden on the global tourist map.
Economy	Renewable energy	The Highlands lead Scotland in hydro and wind power production.
Transport	North Coast 500	A 516-mile driving route dubbed “Scotland’s Route 66.”
Tourism	Visitors per year	Millions flock yearly—Loch Ness alone gets ~2 million visitors annually.